Tiny Human: Are you for real? Storm: Thou shall find out

Clicked while brushing. Insane or what?

Today was relatively a relaxed day. After thanking the Camp team at Ali Bugyal we started our trek towards Patar Nachauni. It is a gradual trail giving enough time to click pictures and admire the terrain. From this day onwards you will feel a slight drop in oxygen level. Once you leave the tree line behind the oxygen level starts dropping. AMS and headaches are a constant threat from this point on wards and hydration is the only way to counter it.

As planned, we reached Patar Nachauni by lunch. After occupying tents, our team members decided to play cricket. Cricket at 12,000 Ft is what they called it. In the evening we trekked a little higher to acclimatize. We were handed disposable bags and the idea was to look for plastic/trash dropped by not so responsible people. It started raining again by 7:00 pm. Massive downpour and booming clouds kept us from sleeping but our tired bodies caved in eventually.

Route to Patar Nachauni

Day 05 | Patar Nachauni (12,818 ft) – Kalu Vinayak – Bhagwabasa (14,117 ft) Summit Camp |

We got up early. Everyone in the team had finally gotten into the rhythm of things. We started for Bhagwabasa, our Summit Camp around 8:00 am. Within an hour of the trek you will fell a sharp drop in oxygen. Breathlessness and fatigue were the challenges for the day. The solution was hydration and taking baby steps. The ascend was very steep and the trail got narrow at too many points. From here it was more of a mental game than a physical challenge. I learnt something new that day. Camphor helps a lot with breathlessness. I confess I am unaware of the science behind it but you bet it works. Take a handkerchief and put some camphor in it. Rub it a little and keep sniffing it. Instant relief!!!!

We reached Kalu Vinayak and as usual our Trek Guide Pushkar Sir had reached there way before us. He looked pretty impressed with our team. He declared that his entire team is going to make it Roopkund Lake, 100% Summit he said. After everybody arrived at Kalu Vinayak, we prayed for safety and success for our team. It was overwhelming for everyone. This was the first time Pushkar Sir told us about a place few hundred meters above Roopkund. They called it the Junargali Top. Despite all our research before the trek, we never came across any place with that name. He assured it was the crown jewel of this trail cause Junargali Top had the best view in town. Standing on the peak of the Mountain you come face to face with Mt. Trishul (23,000 ft) and few other peaks of the range.

After a few cups of tea and maggi we started our trek to Bhagwabasa. And what do you know, another downpour. By the time we made it to Bhagwabasa we were already drenched despite our ponchos and raincoats. After we assembled at the Diner Tent our Camp Leader congratulated us. Making it from Didna to Bhagwabasa was a task in itself.

Today’s briefing was crucial. My intention is not to scare you here but to just narrate my experience. You see Gents, once you are up at those heights, things get unpredictable and in case of any unfortunate event, getting help takes time. Our Camp Leader made it very clear that this was point where one could back out. Making it till Bhagwabasa was an achievement in itself because now what follows is pretty much in the danger zone. We were then introduced to the Tech Team, they were to make sure that everyone summits safely. We were warned about few sections where rocks and boulders are a bit loose and slowing down or taking pictures wasn’t allowed till the summit. Pushkar Sir selected the sequence of our Team for the summit. With ladies leading our way, we were to march without breaking ranks. Oh yeah, during all this while it was still raining outside. The meeting was dismissed after crampons were handed over to us.

Abhishek and I stepped out to have some eggs and tea. We had a lot to discuss and plan it through. The idea was to carry minimum weight, so we started counting the things we needed to drop. After which we sat sharing our experiences with the locals and making narrative videos with Baljeet and Jay, our team members. By evening the rain stopped and lo hold, there they were, the Majestic Himalayas, sitting in their eons old tranquility. The rain had cleared the entire the range, Mt. Neelkant, Mt. Nandagunti, Mt. Trishul and several other peaks were visible. With Sun setting in the background and glowing snow covered peaks it was a sight to witness. I stopped clicking pictures at one point as I realized my camera will never be able to capture what I was witnessing at that moment. The magnanimity of those mountains blankets one’s senses rendering them in an overwhelming state.

The night before Summit. PC: Krishna Patel

Team Quechua. PC: Krishan Patel

Speechless and in awe, we had dinner and dozed off by late evening. Our camp was to break by 3:00 am the following morning. 

Day 06 | Bhagwabasa (14,117 ft) – Roopkund Lake (16,000 ft) – Junargali Top ( 16,500 ft) | Summit Point |

The D day was here. After a quick cup of tea our team assembled. The camp broke by 3:30 am and we began our march. In pitch darkness, with torches and headlamps we marched. Like my friend Abhishek said, the entire game is about the last 500mts. Because when you approach the last 500mts that is when you realize why they asked you to sign a Waiver Form in the beginning. Sub zero temperature, howling wind, steepest trail and several mental break points is what the trail throws at you today. Gripping fear of death and spikes of adrenaline is what it takes you to realize that Heaven is a myth but the Himalayas are for real.

I almost fell three times thanks to the slippery patches on that glacier. During the last few meters you do face a breakdown point because those few steps are truly an embodiment of the phrase “stepping out of your comfort zone”. After climbing for few hours we finally reached the Lake. We actually made it. Roopkund Lake has very different vibe to herself. There she sat, a huge water body in a perfectly circular form and completely frozen. The silence of that lake is almost deafening.

But wait!!! this wasn’t enough, Junargali was yet to be conquered. After a few quick bites of apples and chocolates we reassembled. For the record, before this I had never in my life used ropes to climb. This wasn’t steep, this was like climbing a towering frozen wall of rock and ice. After putting on crampons and saying a few silent prayers, we marched again. Our Tech team kept yelling instructions, that the rope we were holding was our only lifeline. If you miss it, well…, you get a firsthand experience of how gravity works. I think it took us almost half an hour to make it to the top. It was by far the longest half hour of my life. At Junargali Top an unbelievable sight awaited us. Standing on the razor edge of the Mountain you come face to face with Mt. Trishul and her three summit points. It was like entering a timeless zone where only the moving clouds connect you to the physical realm of reality. That day I understood the word “SUMMIT” in its entirety. After clicking pictures we sat for a few minutes trying to absorb the sight. A large approaching cloud marked our descend. This is the tricky part and I kid you not, this is where it gets really risky. Accidents are more likely to happen during descend. After treading carefully, sinking our crampons deep in the snow the whole team made it back to the Lake. By god we made it, we actually did Roopkund and Junargali Top.

Mt. Trishul (23,000 ft)

Cause mama didn’t raise no quitter

Mt. Nandagunti (20,699 ft)

Breakfast was served at Roopkund Lake, porridge at 16,000 ft. After an hour or so we started our descend. There was a section where I almost slipped on ice but it was Pushkar Sir who helped me out. Thanks to him or else I wouldn’t be writing this. We made it back to our Summit Camp safe and sound with the whole team accounted for. A lot of people had headache by the time they reached summit camp. After packing our bags and a quick lunch we left for Patar Nachuani. Our camp leader at Patar Nachauni congratulated us for our victory. After walking for so many days and covering so many kilometers we finally did it.

Day 07 | Patar Nachauni (12,818 ft) – Wan – Lohajung (7,662 ft) |

We started early today, by now it was habit for most of us. We had to cover 14kms and being a steady descent it was mostly pleasant. We crossed Bedni Bugyal bidding farewell to the most meadow in the world. We unpacked our lunch at Neelganga river where dipping our legs in the icy cold river while hogging on parathas and boiled eggs was a different level of indulgence. We reached Wan by late afternoon and Pushkar Sir made sure we stopped at a temple in Wan where a local deity is worshiped. At Wan our cabs were already waiting for us.

We reached our final camp Lohajung by late evening and our debriefing started. We partied all night sharing our experiences and more importantly making plans for future treks. On completion of such arduous endeavor we deserved a souvenir, apart from the pictures, memories, scratches and bruises of course. So TTH gave us a Certificate of Accomplishment.

It says SUMMITEER.

By:-

Shashank Raj